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Oct 11, 2018 - What's inside a sealed cartridge bearing? More specifically how is it constructed? A sealed bearing consists of an outer race (the visible.
- Diamond
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Bearing race removal with no punch relief's....it works.
Removing a bearing race in a counter bore that has no reliefs to drive out the race:
Origionally from the hardinge forum, but 'universal enough' to be posted in General.
Was working on an older 3 bearing DV59, but now a 'newer' HSL also with bearing noise, and needing replacements.
The rear spindle bearing on most of these Hardinge machines has no way to tap on the race to remove it from the headstock casting. I think it's suggested to grind access slots with a die grinder to facilitate the use of a punch on the race, and tapping out the race.
I was told of another method, just tried it and it works slick.
Knock out the inner race, cage and balls (assuming your NOT using the bearing over again).
Crank your MIG welder up to medium heat, and run a quick bead part way around the inside of the outer race, carefully avoiding the casting.
Then if required, weld a couple small (5/16) nuts 180 degrees apart inside to the race also. Let it cool for 5 minutes....and tap it out. The casting will not even be warm, no harm done. No grinding required........
dk - Diamond
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If you run a bead most of the way around, it will probably fall out without using anything else. That's an old, old trick.
- Stainless
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New to me ,thanks for the tip.Good one to post on the 'General' forum 'Tips & Tricks' thread!
- Stainless
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It works for bearings and getting the seat inserts out of cylinder heads.
- Diamond
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TIG works just as well, possibly better, and is easier to control, less spatter.
- Hot Rolled
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- Diamond
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I use all the above and even O/A torch. Just run a bead around the edge with the torch and it'll fall out. On some aluminum housings, you can heat the housing a bit and drop the bearing.
Similarly, I almost never press a bearing off a shaft anymore. You may get only one or two swaps before the bearing seat is undersize if you press. I just burn off the outer race, splitting it in two, dump out the bals, and then stand the shaft on end, heat the bearing pretty quickly with a cutting torch tip, and it'll drop with the shaft only getting mildly warm. - Banned
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I'm confused...If you heat it up does it not expand inside of the bore?
- Stainless
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The idea is to get a bead of weld around the inside of the bearing.
Stick welding works too.!
The bearing does heat up, but cools fast, and the weld bead shrinks quite a bit, placing the bearing ring into a tension situation. The shrink of about .002 works
a higher narrow bead works better than a flat bead from my experience.
What is nice, is if it does not work the first time, just do it again.
The US Army uses the technique all the time on Tanks
Rich - Titanium
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Originally Posted by Rich CarlstedtThe US Army uses the technique all the time on Tanks
Rich
it was also the factory-recommended way to remove steering neck bearings on Harley-Davidsons for many years which didn't have a relief machined in them. Gone by the wayside now, HD finally figured out that customers get pissy when you're welding around their shiny paint and right next to the gas tank and started putting a relief on all models - Cast Iron
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Another way to do it is to put a good size copper rod in the stick rod holder on an AC/DC TIG welder and use the foot control. You just press the copper rod against the race and step on the foot control and the race turns red and falls out. No spatter, no flash, no hood required. Race is red hot fast so don't catch it in your pocket and get off the foot control before you move the copper rod. Also works well for removing big snap rings that have an ear broken off. I use a 1/2' diameter copper rod most of the time because it was handy the first time I tried this approach.
- MetalcutterTitanium
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I gets me that the guy building always stops thinking as soon as his part is done, never, EVER, thinking of what the poor guy who has the product has to go through to unwind the mess he was left with. I'm sure the undercut would take another five seconds to do while the part was being made. Sheesh!Originally Posted by 77ironheadit was also the factory-recommended way to remove steering neck bearings on Harley-Davidsons for many years which didn't have a relief machined in them. Gone by the wayside now, HD finally figured out that customers get pissy when you're welding around their shiny paint and right next to the gas tank and started putting a relief on all models
Regards,
Stan- - Titanium
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It also works to hold a collar on a shaft. make the collar to be a close slip fit to the shaft then cut a groove in the center of the OD with a V tool.
Slide the collar where you want it and fill the V all the way around the collar with a deep penetration weld.
If you want it off you will have to machine it off. - Aluminum
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You don't need to weld a bead in the bearing. Just use the O/A torch to heat a couple of spots on the bearing race give it a minute to cool and the bearing will have contracted enough to come out. Bearings with a very tight press fit will need a larger area heated up. Zoom
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